We woke up early again, eager to beat the crowds at the world-famous Pyramids of Giza (Gizeh). They open at seven AM, and we weren’t sure how busy it would get. From our rooftop terrace, we could already see the pyramids, and it was just a 15-minute walk to the entrance from our hotel, the Embrace Elite Pyramids Boutique Hotel.
Be careful with the name, as there are thousands of hotels with the word “Pyramids” in them, and not all are a good choice. We had purchased tickets online to skip any potential queues at the ticket office, and by 7:45 AM, we were inside the pyramid grounds (because we didn’t want to skip breakfast either).
It was a glorious morning! The wind had cleared away all the haze and smog, and for once, we could see all the way to the Sakkara pyramids—a rare and breathtaking sight.
Wanting to take advantage of very few tourists, no busses there yet and wonderful light to take pictures, we set out nearly all by ourselves. Not even the camels and horses for tourists were there yet.
Giza is known for its three gigantic pyramids, all built during the 4th dynasty of pharaohs. Each pyramid is named after the ruler it was built for: Khufu (also known as Cheops), Khafre (Chephren), and Menkaure (Mykerinos).
These monumental structures are essentially massive tombs. Each pyramid had a memorial temple next to it, complete with a ramp connecting it to the pyramid. Two of the pyramids are surrounded by three smaller pyramids, which house the tombs of royal family members.
We started wandering around the oldest and largest pyramid, the Khufu Pyramid, also known as the Cheops Pyramid. Originally built between 2575 BCE and 2465 BCE, these pyramids have endured for over 4,000 years, and that alone is a fascinating and staggering number. What building today would last that long? The pyramids appeared sandblasted and worn until we learned that the sandstone blocks visible today were not part of the original casing but the rougher core stones.
At the top of the Khafre Pyramid, the second-largest of the three at 136 meters in height (originally 143 m), you can still see the original smooth surface of white limestone, rather than the coarser and softer yellow/red limestone used in the interior.
Menkaure is the smallest of the three pyramids, originally measuring 66 meters (217 feet) in height, but now only 62 meters (203 feet) due to the loss of its casing. Unlike the other two pyramids, it was covered in harder-to-break red granite rather than limestone. An interesting fact that highlights the enormity of the task: The Menkaure Pyramid required only 1/10th of the amount of stone used to build the Khufu Pyramid, illustrating the scale of these monumental projects, that are still standing after 4.500 years!
All three pyramids must have glared in bright white at the time, clearly visible from a long distance. It is believed that the original capstone of the Great Pyramid was covered in gold or electrum (a naturally occurring alloy of gold and silver), which would have made it gleam in the sunlight. Sadly all pyramids were plundered inside and outside over the centuries by grave robbers and people needing building materials.
The Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops) is the largest and consists of 2.3 million blocks of limestone, weighing a combined total of 5.75 million tons. It was assembled without a single bit of mortar. This is an amazing feat of engineering and architecture, and the true secret of how it was constructed remains a riddle to this day. If you want to dive deeper into this question, experts are debating three main theories: First, the use of ramps—either straight, zigzagging, or a spiral ramp built from the inside out. Then there’s the lever and rollers theory, as well as the potential use of counterweights or pulleys to lift the stone blocks.
Newer theories also suggest that water might have been used to reduce friction in the sand, making it easier to move the massive stones. Additionally, it’s believed there was a canal from the Nile directly to the pyramid construction site, allowing stones to be transported more easily. New evidence has also emerged suggesting that the workforce might have been highly organized, rather than consisting of just slaves, as traditionally thought.
Archaeological discoveries, such as workers’ tombs near the pyramids, indicate that the builders were likely skilled laborers and craftsmen who worked in rotating shifts. They were probably well-fed, housed, and compensated for their labor. However, the true methods may never be fully known, and the construction of the Great Pyramid remains one of the most remarkable engineering feats in human history.
We didn’t go inside any of the pyramids—Chris because he had been inside before, and Esther because claustrophobia and narrow, hot, confined passages don’t mix well. There isn’t much to see inside, so it’s more about the experience of being inside such a massive structure. Be aware that you need to buy an additional ticket upfront to get inside.
Since we just mentioned that Chris had been inside before, here’s a bit of personal history: In 1987, Chris and his parents visited Egypt together. At that time, tickets to the Giza Pyramids cost just three Egyptian Pounds (compared to 700 today). While many things have changed since then (there are two luxurious restaurants now on the premises f.e.), the Pyramids themselves have not. Interestingly, 1987 was also the year they began constructing the glass pyramid at the Louvre in Paris.
After exploring all three pyramids from ground level (climbing the lower parts of the pyramids was still common in 1987, but the ban is now strictly enforced), we decided to walk to a viewpoint opposite the pyramids, where we noticed a little café nearby.
In the past, the pyramids were located far outside the boundaries of Cairo, but today, the city has grown around the entire site, and wherever you look, you can see housing. The grounds are quite large, so we decided to walk the 1.5 km to the viewpoint.
It was warming up but still pleasant in the sun, and we watched as camels and horses arrived, either carrying carriages or saddles for the day’s tourists. We had heard several troubling stories about how the animals are treated here, so we decided not to ride or take a carriage in Giza. Instead, we walked the short distance to the lookout and, turning around, simply enjoyed the stunning view of all three pyramids together.
If we had known, we could have reserved breakfast table here, with the pyramids view. We still enjoyed an excellent cappuccino (or two) overlooking the whole vista complete with 4.500 year old pyramids, horses and camels arriving to do a days work.
Until about nine AM there were very few tourists out and about, but that started to change and the horse and camel guides found their customers quickly. We saw where they were taking pictures and those were indeed the best angles, the very same ones we had chosen before.
Added bonus was, that since they had brought their clients there, we were not offered rides constantly.
Next we walked in a circle back to the first pyramid and down the hill to THE Sphinx of Sphinxes.
Carved out of limestone, this impressive monument features a man’s head and a lion’s body. It stands approximately 20 meters (66 feet) high and is about 63 meters (207 feet) long. The head is believed to be modeled after King Khafre, and it was likely built at the same time as his pyramid. The Sphinx is a solid monument, with no hidden chambers or doors.
In the Arabic world, the Great Sphinx of Giza is known as Abu al-Hawl (Father of Terror), and there are rumors that it was intended as a symbol of protection for King Khafre aka Cheops.
At the Sphinx, we got a sense of how crowded it usually is. Plenty of tourists milled about, both in groups and individually, taking their Instagram shots. Fortunately, the Sphinx is cordoned off widely, allowing us to see the entire monument relatively well despite the crowds.
Having spent nearly four hours in peace and quiet—first at the pyramids and then walking the grounds to the lookouts and back, with few people around—we decided to try our luck at one of the two restaurants on the grounds. Khufu’s had the last available table at the bar for us. Since we didn’t want to eat as much as we had in the past few days, we initially planned to share one meal. However, we were told we had to order one each, or share a mixed grill for whopping 99 Euros. Chris was a little annoyed since he wanted to skip the main course, but we ended up enjoying a high-class meal, beautifully prepared.
This turned out to be our most expensive meal in Egypt, but the location and the occasion—our last day here—made it well worth it. (Nevertheless, we would recommend the other place at Panorama 2, where we had our coffee. The prices there are much more reasonable, with an à la carte menu. But be sure to make your reservation early!)
As it was a three course meal plus amuse bouche we took our time enjoying our food. When we came out, it was afternoon and the previously sunny and exceptionally clear day had turned into an overcast sky with sand blowing up everywhere. One could not even see the lookout clearly anymore. Also the place was crawling with tourists by now.
Once again, as so many times on this trip, we counted ourselves lucky to have chosen the right time, location, and activities to fully enjoy the sights of Egypt.
We decided to drop off our bags at the hotel, and turn around quickly to visit the newly opened GEM (Grand Egyptian Museum) before it closed at five PM. We decided to walk there , which according to google maps was a 20 min walk. What we hadn‘t counted on was that there is major road works going on and we had to walk alongside a six lane highway for about 10 minutes and even cross it at least once. Not a great feeling, but we had no choice as a car would have forced us to circle very widely around the area.
We were curious, as we had been told that the museum is quite special and super modern. The original Egyptian Museum, which still houses Tutankhamun’s death mask, still exists, but many of the artefacts have already been moved to this new location, which is much closer to the pyramids.
Not all exhibits were open yet (especially the Tutankhamun section), and rumor has it that the official opening will coincide with a special political moment. As of now, the museum is in a so-called “trial opening,” but it has not been officially inaugurated due to ongoing artefacts restoration and setup work. However, speculation is high that, once the work is completed, the official opening will happen quickly and likely coincide with a large global event (e.g., the World Games, a world leaders’ summit, or something similar). President Al-Sisi is known for thinking big.
The museum has a vast and easy-to-navigate layout, with sections ranging from the earliest periods of ancient Egypt to the Roman/Greek period. From displays of everyday life to religious ceremonies, warfare, and science, it offers an extensive range of exhibits. We saw many artifacts from places we had visited before, including statues, reliefs, and valuables from the Abu Simbel, Edfu, and Kom Ombo temples, Habu and Luxor, the Valley of the Kings tombs, and Karnak. We couldn’t help but recall our guide in Luxor, who had complained that all the artefacts seem to travel to Cairo instead of being displayed at their original locations.
It was a bit overwhelming for 1.5 hours, but we were glad we took the time to visit. Back at the hotel, we were exhausted from all the walking (20 km, most of it on sandy ground) and still full from our lunch. We decided to skip dinner, pack our bags, and retire early for some much-needed sleep. Our driver would be waiting for us a 6:30 AM the next day to beat morning traffic and take us to the airport.
This concludes our Egypt blog. In summary, we feel fortunate to have chosen this time of year and route, which allowed us to enjoy fewer tourists, pleasant temperatures, and lower prices than we had expected or would normally experience. The perceived proximity to the war in Gaza seemed to have deterred many tourists, but we found no reason to let it affect our experience. All in all, we were pleasantly surprised by Egypt and are glad we decided to visit, despite some of Chris’ concerns about how touristic and crowded it might be. Even though there were many attempts to sell us services or products, and occasional begging, we were always treated respectfully, and our “no, thank you” was always accepted.
